SO YOU LOVE THE IDEA OF LIVING abroad but are unsure about where to go or how to go about it. Heck, you don't even speak the language. But nobody ever said you had to walk before you could run, and most potential emigrants take their baby steps by visiting a country for a holiday first, exploring the towns, looking in estate agents' windows and generally getting a bit of a feel for the place.
Those who are even more organised book in for an intensive language course, to brush up on their school French, Spanish or Italian, or even to start learning from scratch. Whatever your age or level, you can spend anything from a week to a year attending language classes abroad. It's by far the best way to pick up a language rapidly and accurately, with the added bonus of a holiday thrown in.
Opting for the cosmopolitan glamour of the French Riviera, my destination is Nice, capital of the Cote d'Azur. Not only can I refresh my French, I can soak up the city's culture and vibrant ambience, too - all in the Mediterranean sunshine. Parfait!
Arriving on a Sunday afternoon, my first stop is my apartment, a modem, self-contained studio flat with great views over Vieux Nice (the Old Town) and a perfect base for the week ahead. Students can choose between a private apartment like mine, sharing with other students or, if cooking's not your thing, the luxury of a hotel. It's also possible to stay with a host family, a true immersion linguistique, where students are encouraged to speak, read and listen to French all day.
Located in a 100-year-old bourgeois building, my school is just five minutes' walk from the beach via the picturesque Vieille Ville. Characterised by its labyrinth of narrow, winding streets, the Old Town boasts art galleries, funky bars and quirky boutiques, opening on to the lively Cours Saleya, lined with pastel-coloured, Italian-influenced facades, buzzing restaurants. No wonder the likes of Elton John, Bono and Sean Connery have bought homes here. Renowned not only for its sense of style, but also as a young, dynamic town, Nice is a gateway to glamorous resorts such as Cannes, Monaco and St Tropez. There are also fast ferries to Corsica or Sardinia.
Monday morning comes and a scenic walk to school takes me through the cacophony of sights, sounds and smells of the bustling Old Town. Freshly-brewed coffee, croissants and crowded early-morning market stalls... it certainly makes a change from exhaust fumes, waiting for buses and that onerous commute on the Tube.
On arrival, I receive a warm welcome from the staff and any first-day nerves are soon dispersed when the directeur greets us with a big "bienvenu!" After a written and oral test to determine my level of French, I'm ambitiously placed in the advanced class (if you feel uncomfortable, it's easy to drop a class or even go up a level). I'm then introduced to my fellow students, whose ages range from 18 to around 40, and lessons commence. In the classroom, French is actively encouraged, although it's easy to slip into English as everyone speaks it. Hooks are provided and included, in the price. All you need to bring is a pen and a dictionary.
Many of the students are starting from scratch. Creative and dynamic, the lessons are tailored to your level: "We teach students to speak by repetition and by constructing sentences and we don't mind if you make a mistake," says the directeur, William Harnmerstein. "What's important is communication, so that you can understand and be understood. There's also listening comprehension, writing and reading skills and grammar as well."
Advanced lessons are mainly discussions on subjects such as the media, films and world culture, encouraging students to express their opinions. Classes have a maximum of 10 students and lessons take the shape of three hours in the morning, with a break of 15 minutes, leaving the afternoons free to do whatever you choose. As well as English, there's a real international mix of students -Japanese, Swiss, German, Swedish, Italian, American. This study-stay turns out to be a true cultural experience.
Following a short, guided tour of the local area on my first afternoon, I head off for a lazy afternoon in the sun. Although there is the matter of a little homework to deal with... hmmm, a la plage, perhaps! Teeming with rollerbladers, joggers, cyclists and strollers, the wide promenade des Anglais boasts the tempting turquoise Meet on one side and Art Deco architecture and Belle Epoque mansions and hotels, such as the world-famous Negresco, on the other.
So why Nice? "Nice has such a relaxed atmosphere, the beach is on your doorstep and the weather's great, too," says Martin from Germany, who has spent the last three months studying in France. "The school is an international meeting place, which makes language learning a pleasure."
"Nice appeals because the name of the Cote d'Azur is renowned," says directeur William. "The good weather's also an attraction, even the winter's very mild. So you can come all-year round and learn French, while enjoying a nice holiday, mixing learning with having a good time."
There's also a variety of group activities on offer in conjunction with the course, as well as organised dinners, trips to the cinema and clubs. For the more adventurous, there are water sports in the Baie des Anges. Students can go sailing, scuba diving, handgliding, rafting and can even ski in the winter. And, of course, there's the wonderful nightlife."
To enhance the learning experience, the school offers weekly excursions to nearby villages and towns, such as Monaco and Cannes and the enchanting hilltop village of Eze, where The Edge from U2 was married.
Karen from Bath couldn't speak a word of French before she arrived two weeks ago. Now she's oozing confidence and is in love with Nice. She says: "It's got everything you could possibly want. Sun, sea, great food, regional dishes ... you've got to try the socca. It's a fun city, with beautiful views and things to see everywhere."
Ayako, a Japanese student who lives in London, is here to learn because her new husband is French. She says it's all about immersing yourself in the culture as well as the language, and so chose to stay with a host family. "It's by far the best way to practise French. And the lessons are great. I have private lessons in the afternoon, too."
If you come on your own, rest assured that it's not at all intimidating and it's easy to make friends. In the evenings, I meet up with my fellow students and we join the late-night revellers who flock to the trendy Cours Saleya to people-watch, or head to the many backstreet bars and clubs.
At the end of the week-long course, it's time to say au revoir to my new-found friends. In just a short time I have learned so much and, perhaps more importantly, I am now armed with vital insider knowledge when it comes to making the move more permanent.
• Angela West booked her course through Cactus Language international
tel: 0044 (0)1273 725200. UK: 0845 130 4775. www.cactuslanguage.com
• A one-week general course of 20 lessons costs £279. The same course
with host family accommodation, including breakfast and dinner, costs £469.
The same course with private apartment, but no meals, costs £549.